Friday, January 9, 2009

A Sophisticated Storage Stool - Part One

Many problems of storage involve small items which are often irritatingly difficult to fit into the general storage scheme of your home. A child's coin or stamp collection, for example, and other items, are likely to get lost in a large cupboard. This storage stool provides a safe place for them.

The stool is also perfect for many of the range of small modern pianos that are on the market. If you wish to use it as a piano stool, make it in the same timber that is used to veneer the piano - in this case sapele is used.

General Construction

The construction of the storage stool is quite simple. It consists of four sides, or rails, housed together in a box shape. Legs are fixed to the two short sides, or rails, of the box. The base of the box is 13mm plywood panel. The lifting lid of the stool consists of two plywood panels. One panel is covered with foam and upholstered and then screwed to the other, lower, panel. This panel is hinged to the back rail with concealed cabinet hinges.

The Frame

The frame of the storage stool consists of four sides, or rails - a front and back rail and two side rails. The front and back rails have a housing cut in them to take the side rails. The legs of the stool are glued and screwed to the ends of the side rails and in the finished construction the outer wide surface of the legs is set back 3mm. from the ends of the front and back rails. The tops of the side rails and legs are covered with strips of timber, referred to as handles.

The first step is to make the legs. Cut the timber for the legs a little over length and place all four pieces together in a vice. Mark the exact length of the legs -432mm.- on the timbers and square lines through these points with a try square. Take the legs out of the vice and continue the squared lines right round the timbers.

Now cut the timber for the front and back rails over length, put them in a vice and mark out the finished length of 546mm. From these lines, down towards the center of the timber, mark a distance of 25mm. Then mark inwards a further 19mm, or the exact thickness of the timber you are using for the side rails.

Take the front and back rails out of the vice and square lines right round the timber at the points which mark the finished length of these pieces. Square a line through the points which mark the position of the housings, on the inner wide surface of the rails only. With a marking gauge set 4.7mm. Mark the depth of the housings on the narrow edge of the timber, within the area of the lines marking the housing.

With the two short rails held together in a vice, mark them to a length of 321mm. Take them from the vice and continue the lines right round the timber. Mark out the handles in the same way.

Now cut the side rails, the front and back rails, the legs and the handles to length. Use a ten on saw for this, cutting down the marked lines. With a saw and chisel, cut out the housings in the front and back rails.

Polishing the Components

The outer surfaces of the components are polished before they are glued together with a woodworking adhesive. Polishing the components before you glue them means that you have don't have to deal with awkward corners. It also enables you to lift surplus glue off the surface of the timber when the glue has dried. Removing dried excess glue from bare timber without damaging the surface is almost impossible.

To finish the components, first plane all the pieces to a smooth finish with a finely set smoothing plane. If the grain of the timber is rather wild and tears easily, a cabinet scraper will produce a smooth finish. Trails assemble the components and flush off the top and bottom edges of the box construction.

Smooth all the components with fine glass paper. Then mark the contact surfaces clearly - these are the surfaces that will be coated with adhesive later. Make sure that these surfaces remain free from polish or you won't be able to make a good glued joint between the components.

Coat all the outer surfaces - not the contact surfaces - with a cellulose sanding sealer. Alternatively, apply a thin coating of polyurethane varnish, mixed 50/50 with turpentine
substitute. Glass papers the surfaces when the coating has dried and wax polishes them.

Autor: Rahmat Suki

Hi, my name is Rahmat. I have been working as a craftsman for many years. I believe I have a passion for handicrafts work in wood,plastic and metal. Besides that, I like reading, listening to music, and traveling. Last but not least I like to surf the net. Visit my site

Added: January 9, 2009